9.10.10

'All You Need' in Vienna

The city planners in Vienna have made it so easy and safe to cycle in the city. Bicycles have the right of way which is respected by all road users and the cycle ways are generally seperated from the traffic.
Bikes have their own ring way around the old city of Vienna which makes cycling in the city quick and enjoyable.
So come with me for a bicycle ride on the Vienna Ringstrasse, via Pratestrasse, Park Ring, Opera Ring, Friedrichstrasse and All You Need.

Tootaloo Tulln, hello Vienna

The weather wasn't fantastic as we crossed to the left bank, leaving Tulln for the final push to Vienna. The weather was forecast as cold, cloudy and a strong headwind, a first for us on this trip, and boy oh boy was it tough. Riding 3 gears lower and still a hard slog all day.

The route we chose for the way into Vienna proved perfect. Ride the left bank to the start of the Donauinsel, cross over the bridge onto the island an ride straight into the heart of the city, traffic free. Brilliant.
We were travelling noticeably slower with the wind in the face, but we made our first stop in reasonable time at the Greifenstein Power Station for well earned muffin, figs and a drink.
We had been told that Korneuburg was as lovely as Tulln so we planned for lunch in the square, but were disappointed with our choice.
The rat catcher of Korneuburg
Not impressed and both now feeling tired.
Rather quickly after lunch you are riding through the outer suburbs of the city, but as soon as you cross onto the Donauinsel it seems as though you are back in the country again, an island of countryside in the city.
Stop for a breather, nearly there!
A long slog up the Donauinsel with frequent stops into an increasing head wind all the way to the Reichsbrucke, which signalled our entry into the city proper.
St Stephens Vienna in the distance
A short pause to take in the achievement and now to takle the traffic and find our hotel. This is the point in the ride where all the route planning for the GPS came into its own.  Without wasting any time it led us directly to our hotel, the "All you need" hotel Vienna 4,  super room, super staff and centrally located in the city.

Our hotel in Vienna












Store the bikes in the lock up, unpack and settle in, tired but happy,  we had done it.

Chill'n in Tulln


Tulln is a small market town designed around a town centre square recently rebuilt with underground parking, fountains, gardens and cafes, the perfect place to relax in the sunshine before our final pedal to Vienna and watch the world go by.

Our way to the youth hostel
Tulln JHA











How do I get out?
The first class youth hostel, was conveniently located near the centre of town with easy access from the cycleway and the public spaces along the banks of the river. Only 5 minutes walk and you are in the square.
Very very impressed with Tulln, which is only 25 minutes by train to Vienna, so it is easy to see why it has become a commuter town for the city. 
Tulln is often referred to as Blumenstadt, meaning the city of flowers, and is one of the oldest towns in Austria. Although it was settled in pre-Roman times, the name Tulln is probably a Celtic word, it gained importance as the Roman fort and naval base of Comagena.

Attila receives Kreimhild, Sylvia gets wet.
It was also here where the Mongol leader Attilla the Hun, now barbarian King Etzel received Kriemhild to become his bride and sealed the peace. It is hard to image 40% of the town destroyed at the end of the war and occupied by the Russians, the only reminder being an understated war memorial on the banks of the Danube. 

RIP










A relaxing day, a little retail therapy, coffee and cakes and a delicious evening meal.


Thoughts now turned to the final ride to Vienna.

6.10.10

To the city of Marcus Aurelius

Beautiful sunny morning for the start of our ride to Tulln. Pretty slick loading the bikes with all our gear, and in short time we are cycling into Unterloiben.



Wow that was good ...... on we go.
Our ride takes us quickly into Krems for our first coffee stop and some serious decisions. 
Krems is regarded as the oldest city in Lower Austria and is an architectural confusion of Gothic and Baroque, Renaissance and Modern giving the city a unique character and some serious temptations. Suitably refreshed we make our way through the old city centre of Krems and out through the industrial east side and onto the riverside dyke.
The cycleway atop the long dyke leads to the Altenworth Power station where we cross the river to the south bank to continue our journey, as there is no route on the left side. The riding is easy in the warm sunshine and in the distance you can see the northern fringes of the Vienna forest.


Large glass of elderflower champagne on sunny day at a stop near Langenschonbichl





The route passes through a series of small residential villages and eventually reaches the garden city of Tulln, or Castra Comagenis, as Marcus would say.

A day in Durnstein

Durnstein, not only the centre of the wine area but also gaoler of England's most famous King, Richard the Lionheart.
After a lie in and lazy breakfast, we mooched around Durnstein all day, shopping, sightseeing, and watching the world go by. I now understand why some have said that the ransomed King Richard did not really want to return the England.

Enjoy the images of Durnstein and Oberloiben.

5.10.10

Wine, wine glorious wine.

The magnificent Benedictine Abbey at Melk stands at the beginning of the beautiful Wachau region of Austria best known for its quality wines.
The Abbey sits upon a promontory and dominates the town and surrounding area. Although Melks heyday in the 18th century has long since passed it has managed to hold on to its beauty and has become a tourist focus with the Abbey and grounds an essential visit.


As we sat down to lunch in the Abbey grounds the tired legs from the day before had disappeared and we were both feeling on top form. It had been only a short push to Melk along the river from our overnight in Krummnusbaum and we had made good time in the overcast coolish morning.

After the tour of the Abbey and Church we were again cycling into the Wachau, crossing the river at Melk and passing through a number of small hamlets on our way to Durnstein and our B&B at Oberloiben.
There is a main road which follows the northern bank of the river, but the Donnauweg keeps to the old road up through tiny villages, a little more undulating but very easy cycling and absolutely delightful.
We get to Aggsbach Markt and for refreshment take the bubbling fresh water from a fish fountain, then onto Willendorf where the Venus of Willendorf was discovered, however the museums shut so we don't get the opportunity to see it. The Venus was discovered by railway builders in 1908 and is an 11 centimeter female fertility figure from the old stone age. We press on through the vineyards, more villages and arrive in Spitz at the foot of the Tausendeimerberg around teatime. Tausendeimerberg translates to the thousand pails mountain so called because the hill can produce 1000 pails of wine in a good season (56,000 ltrs).
Foot of the Tausendeimerberg, Spitz
We decided on a junk food meal at Spitz and were soon sitting down to a large plate of Weinersnitzle and chips washed down with some pilsner beer.
By the time we pedalled out of Spitz it was getting dark and very gloomy as we passed through Durnstein with only a couple of kilometers to go to our digs at Oberloiben.
A kind chap in Spitz had called ahead to advise of our late arrival, and we were warmly welcomed by our host and shown to a most glorious room for our two night stay in a vineyard in Oberloiben.
A super 34 mile day.
Oberloiben

4.10.10

Our longest day

I hadn't realised I had made a mistake in the route planning when we set off from Au. Our planned 30 miles for a ride across the flat Marchland to Grein before entering the Strudengau, where the river nears the dangerous waters of the Struden and the Hausstein rock, pedalled in at 44 miles before we came to our overnight stay in Kummnusbaum, and showed that the best laid plans can go wrong.
However we were still smiling after a brilliant days ride and boy was the Gasthaus Schiffmeister a sight for sore eyes.
Leaving Au                             Sylvia bitten by insects again
The first stage of the journey was an easy ride on a smooth surface hugging the left bank before we turned away from the river onto small country lanes at Mitterkirchen and on through a series of villages to our first planned stop for the day, and lunch, at the Celtic Village.
The remains of the 700BC village from the Hallstatt period were discovered in 1980 and have been meticulously reconstructed to provide the visitor with a great insight into how these ancient peoples lived.






Ancient remains of a Princess inside the burial cairn in the Celtic Village





A return to the river as you leave the Marchland and enter a narrowing valley as the Danube heads into a difficult stretch of water known as the Strudengau. Shortly after, we enter the beautiful town of Grein and a welcome ice cream.
Beautiful Grein
All the route guides suggest you cross the Danube at Grein to the right bank as the cycle trail on the left bank shares a rather busy road, so down to the cycle ferry, 2 Euros to the ferryman and we cross to the other side to continue our journey.
Just had to stop for a coffee at this great place.
The cycleway follows the river all the way to Ybbs and by this time it is becoming obvious that I have miscalculated the distance of the ride for the day, we are well into the afternoon and still some way to go.
We find a Spar supermarket and stock up for an indoor picnic we plan to have when we reach our nights stop. I also get a little lost in Ybbs, due to the diversions away from our route to get around road and river embankment works. Thank heavens for GPS as it works its magic and gets us back on track after leaving the town. The weather started out warm, and sunny but at the end of the day as we pushed towards Krummnusbaum it becomes overcast, light showers and getting cold as well, so when the Gasthaus came into view after around 8 hours in the saddle, a little cheer went off inside me ........ I've done it.


25.9.10

Oh, Au

One of the inescapable delights of riding along the banks of the Danube are the preponderance of wildflowers.
I don't know their names, perhaps you do?



The Puhringer Gasthaus proved to be comfortable but basic, with no Internet connection and cash only, and, despite being the end of August and still in the high tourist season, pretty well deserted. We were the only guests.

Directions on the cycle route, you can't get lost?
Au an der Donau is a small hamlet nestling behind a huge dyke on the Danube with a grocery and pastry shop and not much else. Typical all along the Danube, is the Au marina, an artificial harbour cut into the banks of the river providing anchorage for pleasure craft and leisure facilities for the nearby camping site.

Marina at Au, note the cycle path on the top of the dyke.

With Au pretty deserted we walked to the larger town of Naarn through fields of corn, orchards and soybean dodging the showers but soaking up the intermittent sunshine. Although still showery the weather was in a warm trend and getting better. Not much to say about Naarn, a small country town with a bank, some shops and a cafe.
When planning our ride this year we built rest days into our schedule and after three days in the saddle the day "off" was greatly appreciated, so we walked and explored the area, sunned ourselves in the breaks in the weather, and rested.
Oh and my faithful Cassio camera has a developed a fault, no viewing screen.


Fine dining at the Jagerwirt Gasthof

22.9.10

Beautiful country and horrors of the past


Both feeling pretty chipper after a good nights sleep, bit stiff in the legs but no sore bottoms thanks to gel pad pants and the liberal use of Paceline's Chamois Butt'r, expensive but definitely worth it.
Showers on and off all day, interrupted with bright periods of blue sky and sunshine. At least it was reasonably warm. The days destination was the village of Au an der Donau some 28 miles away where we planned a break from riding with a two night stay at the Gasthaus Hafenwirt Pühringer.
After leaving Ottensheim, the left bank route follows a cycle way alongside the busy road to Urfahr over the river from the City of Linz. 
Cycleway near Linz
Linz is built on the site of the Roman market city of Lentia and its harbour and has a long history of trade and industry, development by Kaiser Maximillian, and the site of Europes first large industrial factory. When we cycled in around midmorning, nothing seemed open, but we soon found a little restaurant in Urfahr that provided shelter from the rain and the most wonderful cake and coffee.
We stayed on the left bank as we left the city, riding through extensive parkland, dyke riding all the way to the village of Abwinden where we found a cafe, some beautiful Goulash soup and beer for lunch. Very few cyclists and people around, most things seemed shut and its only the end August.  The season seems to end very early?
Revitalised and refreshed, the route now passes on quiet lanes through a series of villages away from the river, with few cars and few people. At Weinergraben we stocked up at the Euro SPAR supermarket, peddled past the turn off to Mauthausen concentration camp, now a memorial to the horrors of the past, and into the lovely town of Mauthausen. 

We both decided early on in the planning stages of this adventure that we didn't want to visit scenes of Nazi atrocities, and after visiting the Auschwitz death camp in Poland some years ago, I didn't want to experience that horror again.

We discovered that most of the small Gasthaus don't have credit card facilities, so a visit to Sparkasse Bank Geldermat in Mauthausen, or ATM to you and me, to replenish the coffers before the short ride to Au an der Donau for our next stop and rest day.

Oh, Au
Gasthaus Hafenwirt Pühringer



On leaving Mauthausen I saw this and had a right old chuckle.

Enjoy the slideshow

21.9.10

Onto Ottensheim

Our second day on the bikes was dominated by the weather, heavy overcast and frequent showers. Sylvia was suffering sickness from something she ate the night before and I had broken a spoke in the rear wheel of the bike, a little worrying when you are carrying all that weight.
Near Kobling
The ride however was through the Sauwald forest, around the S curve in the Danube and eventually breaking out into the fertile Eferdinger basin before Ottensheim and our overnight stay some 30 miles downstream.
The hotel at Schlogen proved very comfortable although a little expensive, and a better bet would have been the Gasthauses at Inzell, a tiny hamlet about 3 mile further along the river. We set off and soon after reached Kobling where we stopped at a cafe and managed to get some soothing chamomile tea for Sylvia who was still suffering.
We continued on in light showers until Aschach where we again stopped for refreshments and a visit to a bike shop to see if the broken spoke could be repaired. Nothing short enough for the 20" wheels so with spoke tied back we pressed on with fingers crossed.
By lunch time, with the rain increasing, we found a Gasthof overlooking the river at Brandstatt and had the most fantastic fish soup you could ever wish for, washed down with a beautiful local beer.
Our plan for the afternoon was to cross the river at the Ottensheim Wilhering power station, but the way was closed due to works so we had to push on to Wilhering for a ferry crossing to Ottensheim and our overnight stop.
Donauhof at Ottensheim
We arrived just in time at the crossing point and shelter as the heavens opened. Now the ferry is rather special at Ottensheim, it is driven by current ..... river current. It is tethered by a cable and steers side on into the fast flowing Danube current which thrusts it across to the opposite bank. How green is that?
The Donnauhof overlooks the river near the ferry landing and two bedraggled cyclists came to hear the most welcome words you have ever heard,
"Her Heeley, we've been expecting you, welcome, your room is ready."

16.9.10

First day on the road

After a rather decent breakfast, bikes packed and out of the garage, we set off by 10:30 for Schlogen some 27 miles away.
Packing and ready for off
Our hotel was right on the Donauradweg so we were soon on the trail along the promenade at Passau, over the Danube and Ilz and on our way down the left bank out of the city. The route is on a very smooth surface alongside the road past Erlau, Obernzell and all the way to the power station and river locks at Jochenstein. There were a lot of cyclists on the route this morning and many riding pedelecs out for a days ride.
Sunday in this part of the world means most things are shut, but a good strategy is to pull into camp sites where more often than not the site cafe is open. And so it proved by Obernzell where the campsite outdoor covered cafe proved the perfect place for lunch when the heavens opened with hail and heavy rain.
At least it was warm. We were soon on our way again along the pathway, cycling in glorious sunshine and crossed the frontier into Austria just downstream from Jochenstein.
Into Austria and wild fruit, ahhhhh Blackberries
The route now becomes wilder with thick forest on both banks of the river, and we made good time cycling on the super paved surface, passing through little hamlets on our way to the bicycle ferry at Au for the crossing to our hotel.
Onto the ferry and across the river to our overnight stop
Two euro each on the cycle ferry and we were at our hotel for the night in Schlogen right on the bend of the Donau Schlingue.
End of the first day



14.9.10

Passau

The Deutscher Kaiser turned out to be a real little gem, our spacious room on the corner of the building facing the railway station. Passau is built on a peninsular jutting out into the confluence of three rivers, Danube, Inn and Ilz and is a key postion, hence its interest for the Romans and any army that happened along over the coming centuries.


Top to bottom - sampling at street stalls, where the Danube meets the Inn, Rathaus, relaxing in Passau




Our guided walking tour came to nothing as it was only in German, so with tourist map in hand we soon settled into a self guided tour of this compact and interesting city defined by St Stephens, the Rathouse and the many riverside promenades.By lunch the shopping precinct had come alive and we soon discovered old familiar long lost brands of C&A and Woolworths, jostling side by side with the more unfamiliar for space on the high street.



Many river cruises are based in Passau and we booked a '60s night dinner cruise which took us some 20 miles downstream through the Jochenstein Locks before returning us to our hotel by midnight.

Cruising and dancing to night away.
What a terrific day to start the tour, tomorrow we ride to Schlogen.

6.9.10

Long day on the train

Our overnight on the ferry was uneventful and thanks to messers Marks and Spencer we dined in some elegance without relying on DFDS for sustenance.
Our ICE125 departed Amsterdam right on time and provided a fast smooth journey until the German border when we suddenly came to an unscheduled stop. Tree across the line we were told. Funny after an hour and half we started again and made an unscheduled stop just over the border where German Customs came onto the train and spoke to a couple of passengers. That excitement meant we had missed our connection in Cologne but Sylvia soon discovered that if we stayed on the train we could catch our connection in Franfurt.
Sure enough we boarded our first class compartment in Frankfurt and settled down to our meal when again the train came to an unscheduled stop. "Tree down across the line, we'll have to go another way to Passau which will add 1 hour to the journey" as told via a rough translation of the German.
That it did and we rolled into Passau at midnight, eleven and a half hours after we left Amsterdam.
As luck would have it, when we contacted the hotel Deutscher Kaiser advising our late arrival, our helpful host had been in contact with a relative of the hotel manager who was on the same train. This turned out to be the train superintendent who duly collected us on the train, wheeled our baggage out of the station, down the road to our hotel, where he let us in and bade us goodbye.
What super service from our hosts at the hotel and German Railways. Many thanks to everyone.

21.8.10

Ready to go

Some months ago I started planning a cycling adventure that would mean riding to Vienna using the cycle route along the Danube. Well the result of that exercise is shown below, 10 days to travel the 200 miles from Passau to Vienna, 7 days in the saddle with 3 days of stopovers, one staying on a vineyard.

Simple maths tells you that I only cycle between 25-30 miles a day as I subscribe to the Ethos of a Dutch bike, that when it comes to cycling, riding a bicycle should be fun, enjoying the journey as much as reaching your destination. 
By far the greatest benefit of riding this style, is wearing what you like when you like. Sit-up-and-ride allowing you to enjoy the views as you roll by, and share a pleasant conversation with your riding partner, as opposed to being drooped over the handlebars looking at the ground, where the simple act of lifting your head becomes a painful chore. There's no need for you to dress up in lycra. Wear what you like, pop into a coffee shop or a pub for a quick pint, not looking like someone who'd lost their way from the local 10 mile charity run.
The ferry sails next week on the 26th so drop by here to see how I get on.

5.8.10

Terrific Teeside

Isn't it funny how the coincidence of three completely unconnected events come together to create something special.

A really handy application I use for planning outings using public transport has just started beta testing an extension that will allow you to plan cycle routes in England, and hey ho, they have now included Teeside.
I have always wanted to see the Edwardian engineering marvel and star of the remake of Auf Wiedersehen Pet, the Middlesbrough Transporter Bridge, and, I had discussed with Sylvia a ride to test some gear before the Danube cycling trip at the end of the month, so it seemed like a great idea to plan a cycle ride to cross the Tees on the Transporter Bridge.
Sylvia at New Marske
The Transport Direct, cycle route planner* soon had calculated a useful route from Saltburn by the Sea to Seaton Carew in no time at all, and had worked out a bus timetable and connections to get us from the finish to Saltburn for the start of the 24 mile ride. All we had to do was drive to the finishing point, catch the bus to the starting point and begin our adventure.
The route was a mixture of quiet urban streets, country lanes and pathways in public parks, conveniently passing a number of excellent village pubs where one could stop for the occasional refreshment, and, the highlight of a trip, a crossing on the bridge.
An wonderful days ride in the sunshine, finished off with freshly cooked seaside fish and chips at Seaton Carew.
Brilliant.
Opened in 1911 the longest transporter bridge in the world.


http://www.transportdirect.info/Web2/JourneyPlanning/FindCycleInput.aspx?cacheparam=4&repeatingloop=Y



18.7.10

Bus to Birdoswald

It really was about time I visited something very special that is literally on my doorstep, I mean of course Hadrian's Wall, declared by the United Nations to be of World Heritage status.
Hadrian's Wall marks the frontier as it was in AD122 and was used to control entry to the Roman Empire, to the North you were in the dark ages, to the South the civilised world.
The Wall runs from the North Sea in the East to the Irish Sea in the West and provides a belt around the waist of Britain. Although much plundered over the millennia for its stone, much of the foundations still remain, with forts, towers and towns within the 20 mile wide site that spans from sea to sea. 


As you approach it's all rather impressive, but don't be deceived, this is the farm built across the site






The ruins of the fort at Birdoswald








One place on the Wall I had never visited, was the fort of Banna or Birdoswald as it is now called. There is a super bus service along the Wall that provides welcome transport for walkers, cyclists, locals and visitors alike, the wonderfully designated AD122 service that runs from Hexham to Carlisle. What an enjoyable excursion. Soup, a roll, coffee and cake in the visitors centre, an audio visual introduction and museum, then a stroll through the ruins to a magnificent countryside vista. 


AD122 to Carlisle
What a wonderful way to spend a Saturday.