The city planners in Vienna have made it so easy and safe to cycle in the city. Bicycles have the right of way which is respected by all road users and the cycle ways are generally seperated from the traffic.
Bikes have their own ring way around the old city of Vienna which makes cycling in the city quick and enjoyable.
So come with me for a bicycle ride on the Vienna Ringstrasse, via Pratestrasse, Park Ring, Opera Ring, Friedrichstrasse and All You Need.
9.10.10
Tootaloo Tulln, hello Vienna
The weather wasn't fantastic as we crossed to the left bank, leaving Tulln for the final push to Vienna. The weather was forecast as cold, cloudy and a strong headwind, a first for us on this trip, and boy oh boy was it tough. Riding 3 gears lower and still a hard slog all day.
The route we chose for the way into Vienna proved perfect. Ride the left bank to the start of the Donauinsel, cross over the bridge onto the island an ride straight into the heart of the city, traffic free. Brilliant.
We were travelling noticeably slower with the wind in the face, but we made our first stop in reasonable time at the Greifenstein Power Station for well earned muffin, figs and a drink.
We had been told that Korneuburg was as lovely as Tulln so we planned for lunch in the square, but were disappointed with our choice.
Not impressed and both now feeling tired.
Rather quickly after lunch you are riding through the outer suburbs of the city, but as soon as you cross onto the Donauinsel it seems as though you are back in the country again, an island of countryside in the city.
A long slog up the Donauinsel with frequent stops into an increasing head wind all the way to the Reichsbrucke, which signalled our entry into the city proper.
A short pause to take in the achievement and now to takle the traffic and find our hotel. This is the point in the ride where all the route planning for the GPS came into its own. Without wasting any time it led us directly to our hotel, the "All you need" hotel Vienna 4, super room, super staff and centrally located in the city.
Store the bikes in the lock up, unpack and settle in, tired but happy, we had done it.
The route we chose for the way into Vienna proved perfect. Ride the left bank to the start of the Donauinsel, cross over the bridge onto the island an ride straight into the heart of the city, traffic free. Brilliant.
We were travelling noticeably slower with the wind in the face, but we made our first stop in reasonable time at the Greifenstein Power Station for well earned muffin, figs and a drink.
We had been told that Korneuburg was as lovely as Tulln so we planned for lunch in the square, but were disappointed with our choice.
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| The rat catcher of Korneuburg |
Rather quickly after lunch you are riding through the outer suburbs of the city, but as soon as you cross onto the Donauinsel it seems as though you are back in the country again, an island of countryside in the city.
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| Stop for a breather, nearly there! |
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| St Stephens Vienna in the distance |
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| Our hotel in Vienna |
Store the bikes in the lock up, unpack and settle in, tired but happy, we had done it.
Chill'n in Tulln
Tulln is a small market town designed around a town centre square recently rebuilt with underground parking, fountains, gardens and cafes, the perfect place to relax in the sunshine before our final pedal to Vienna and watch the world go by.
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| Our way to the youth hostel |
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| Tulln JHA |
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| How do I get out? |
The first class youth hostel, was conveniently located near the centre of town with easy access from the cycleway and the public spaces along the banks of the river. Only 5 minutes walk and you are in the square.
Very very impressed with Tulln, which is only 25 minutes by train to Vienna, so it is easy to see why it has become a commuter town for the city.
Tulln is often referred to as Blumenstadt, meaning the city of flowers, and is one of the oldest towns in Austria. Although it was settled in pre-Roman times, the name Tulln is probably a Celtic word, it gained importance as the Roman fort and naval base of Comagena.
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| Attila receives Kreimhild, Sylvia gets wet. |
It was also here where the Mongol leader Attilla the Hun, now barbarian King Etzel received Kriemhild to become his bride and sealed the peace. It is hard to image 40% of the town destroyed at the end of the war and occupied by the Russians, the only reminder being an understated war memorial on the banks of the Danube.
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| RIP |
A relaxing day, a little retail therapy, coffee and cakes and a delicious evening meal.
Thoughts now turned to the final ride to Vienna.
6.10.10
To the city of Marcus Aurelius
Beautiful sunny morning for the start of our ride to Tulln. Pretty slick loading the bikes with all our gear, and in short time we are cycling into Unterloiben.
Wow that was good ...... on we go.
Our ride takes us quickly into Krems for our first coffee stop and some serious decisions. 
Krems is regarded as the oldest city in Lower Austria and is an architectural confusion of Gothic and Baroque, Renaissance and Modern giving the city a unique character and some serious temptations. Suitably refreshed we make our way through the old city centre of Krems and out through the industrial east side and onto the riverside dyke.
The cycleway atop the long dyke leads to the Altenworth Power station where we cross the river to the south bank to continue our journey, as there is no route on the left side. The riding is easy in the warm sunshine and in the distance you can see the northern fringes of the Vienna forest.
Large glass of elderflower champagne on sunny day at a stop near Langenschonbichl
The route passes through a series of small residential villages and eventually reaches the garden city of Tulln, or Castra Comagenis, as Marcus would say.
Wow that was good ...... on we go.
The cycleway atop the long dyke leads to the Altenworth Power station where we cross the river to the south bank to continue our journey, as there is no route on the left side. The riding is easy in the warm sunshine and in the distance you can see the northern fringes of the Vienna forest.
Large glass of elderflower champagne on sunny day at a stop near Langenschonbichl
The route passes through a series of small residential villages and eventually reaches the garden city of Tulln, or Castra Comagenis, as Marcus would say.
A day in Durnstein
Durnstein, not only the centre of the wine area but also gaoler of England's most famous King, Richard the Lionheart.
After a lie in and lazy breakfast, we mooched around Durnstein all day, shopping, sightseeing, and watching the world go by. I now understand why some have said that the ransomed King Richard did not really want to return the England.
Enjoy the images of Durnstein and Oberloiben.
After a lie in and lazy breakfast, we mooched around Durnstein all day, shopping, sightseeing, and watching the world go by. I now understand why some have said that the ransomed King Richard did not really want to return the England.
Enjoy the images of Durnstein and Oberloiben.
5.10.10
Wine, wine glorious wine.
The magnificent Benedictine Abbey at Melk stands at the beginning of the beautiful Wachau region of Austria best known for its quality wines.
The Abbey sits upon a promontory and dominates the town and surrounding area. Although Melks heyday in the 18th century has long since passed it has managed to hold on to its beauty and has become a tourist focus with the Abbey and grounds an essential visit.
As we sat down to lunch in the Abbey grounds the tired legs from the day before had disappeared and we were both feeling on top form. It had been only a short push to Melk along the river from our overnight in Krummnusbaum and we had made good time in the overcast coolish morning.
After the tour of the Abbey and Church we were again cycling into the Wachau, crossing the river at Melk and passing through a number of small hamlets on our way to Durnstein and our B&B at Oberloiben.
There is a main road which follows the northern bank of the river, but the Donnauweg keeps to the old road up through tiny villages, a little more undulating but very easy cycling and absolutely delightful.
We get to Aggsbach Markt and for refreshment take the bubbling fresh water from a fish fountain, then onto Willendorf where the Venus of Willendorf was discovered, however the museums shut so we don't get the opportunity to see it. The Venus was discovered by railway builders in 1908 and is an 11 centimeter female fertility figure from the old stone age. We press on through the vineyards, more villages and arrive in Spitz at the foot of the Tausendeimerberg around teatime. Tausendeimerberg translates to the thousand pails mountain so called because the hill can produce 1000 pails of wine in a good season (56,000 ltrs).
We decided on a junk food meal at Spitz and were soon sitting down to a large plate of Weinersnitzle and chips washed down with some pilsner beer.
By the time we pedalled out of Spitz it was getting dark and very gloomy as we passed through Durnstein with only a couple of kilometers to go to our digs at Oberloiben.
A kind chap in Spitz had called ahead to advise of our late arrival, and we were warmly welcomed by our host and shown to a most glorious room for our two night stay in a vineyard in Oberloiben.
A super 34 mile day.
After the tour of the Abbey and Church we were again cycling into the Wachau, crossing the river at Melk and passing through a number of small hamlets on our way to Durnstein and our B&B at Oberloiben.
There is a main road which follows the northern bank of the river, but the Donnauweg keeps to the old road up through tiny villages, a little more undulating but very easy cycling and absolutely delightful.
We get to Aggsbach Markt and for refreshment take the bubbling fresh water from a fish fountain, then onto Willendorf where the Venus of Willendorf was discovered, however the museums shut so we don't get the opportunity to see it. The Venus was discovered by railway builders in 1908 and is an 11 centimeter female fertility figure from the old stone age. We press on through the vineyards, more villages and arrive in Spitz at the foot of the Tausendeimerberg around teatime. Tausendeimerberg translates to the thousand pails mountain so called because the hill can produce 1000 pails of wine in a good season (56,000 ltrs).
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| Foot of the Tausendeimerberg, Spitz |
By the time we pedalled out of Spitz it was getting dark and very gloomy as we passed through Durnstein with only a couple of kilometers to go to our digs at Oberloiben.
A kind chap in Spitz had called ahead to advise of our late arrival, and we were warmly welcomed by our host and shown to a most glorious room for our two night stay in a vineyard in Oberloiben.
A super 34 mile day.
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| Oberloiben |
4.10.10
Our longest day
I hadn't realised I had made a mistake in the route planning when we set off from Au. Our planned 30 miles for a ride across the flat Marchland to Grein before entering the Strudengau, where the river nears the dangerous waters of the Struden and the Hausstein rock, pedalled in at 44 miles before we came to our overnight stay in Kummnusbaum, and showed that the best laid plans can go wrong.
However we were still smiling after a brilliant days ride and boy was the Gasthaus Schiffmeister a sight for sore eyes.
The first stage of the journey was an easy ride on a smooth surface hugging the left bank before we turned away from the river onto small country lanes at Mitterkirchen and on through a series of villages to our first planned stop for the day, and lunch, at the Celtic Village.
The remains of the 700BC village from the Hallstatt period were discovered in 1980 and have been meticulously reconstructed to provide the visitor with a great insight into how these ancient peoples lived.
Ancient remains of a Princess inside the burial cairn in the Celtic Village
A return to the river as you leave the Marchland and enter a narrowing valley as the Danube heads into a difficult stretch of water known as the Strudengau. Shortly after, we enter the beautiful town of Grein and a welcome ice cream.
All the route guides suggest you cross the Danube at Grein to the right bank as the cycle trail on the left bank shares a rather busy road, so down to the cycle ferry, 2 Euros to the ferryman and we cross to the other side to continue our journey.
The cycleway follows the river all the way to Ybbs and by this time it is becoming obvious that I have miscalculated the distance of the ride for the day, we are well into the afternoon and still some way to go.
We find a Spar supermarket and stock up for an indoor picnic we plan to have when we reach our nights stop. I also get a little lost in Ybbs, due to the diversions away from our route to get around road and river embankment works. Thank heavens for GPS as it works its magic and gets us back on track after leaving the town. The weather started out warm, and sunny but at the end of the day as we pushed towards Krummnusbaum it becomes overcast, light showers and getting cold as well, so when the Gasthaus came into view after around 8 hours in the saddle, a little cheer went off inside me ........ I've done it.
However we were still smiling after a brilliant days ride and boy was the Gasthaus Schiffmeister a sight for sore eyes.
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| Leaving Au Sylvia bitten by insects again |
Ancient remains of a Princess inside the burial cairn in the Celtic Village
A return to the river as you leave the Marchland and enter a narrowing valley as the Danube heads into a difficult stretch of water known as the Strudengau. Shortly after, we enter the beautiful town of Grein and a welcome ice cream.
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| Beautiful Grein |
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| Just had to stop for a coffee at this great place. |
We find a Spar supermarket and stock up for an indoor picnic we plan to have when we reach our nights stop. I also get a little lost in Ybbs, due to the diversions away from our route to get around road and river embankment works. Thank heavens for GPS as it works its magic and gets us back on track after leaving the town. The weather started out warm, and sunny but at the end of the day as we pushed towards Krummnusbaum it becomes overcast, light showers and getting cold as well, so when the Gasthaus came into view after around 8 hours in the saddle, a little cheer went off inside me ........ I've done it.
